Today I saw my first road runner! I scared him off and wasn’t able to catch a picture but then again, you can’t catch a road runner even with a full acme catalog.
The ride today was… interesting, yeah, that sounds positive. Leaving from El Rosario there is essentially nothing until Guerrero Negro. One tiny somewhat creepy little town where I stopped to get a snack but that’s it. I don’t know why I felt weirded out there but I suppose any town with few women and NOTHING around for a hundred miles or more gets a bit weird. No fuel. No fuel for about 200 miles which is just getting into Bob’s limit. The road winds through the upper plateau mountains topping out just shy of 3000 feet. All of this would probably have been fine were it not for the extreme heat today. It might not have been that hot but it was the first time I felt like I was honestly cooking in my suit. It’s hard to stay properly hydrated and I was starting to really feel out of it despite stopping to drink tons of fluids. Of course you can’t really peel off clothes, full gear fanatic or not, because you’ll only dehydrate yourself all the more. I was actually pretty worried that I wasn’t dripping in sweat, not a good sign.
I think it was especially disturbing mentally for me because there were virtually no people on the road. Normally I’d like that but with the desolation, complete lack of services, an older bike and high heat it was a little disconcerting. I was actually happy towards the other end of the stretch when I started to see other cars. And happy when I could see and feel the cooler sea breezes blowing on me. Nothing like a bit of colder, damp air to wake you up and make you ready to go for a few more miles.
I had an interesting and incoherent conversation with a gas station attendant at the other end (not yet in reserve but not far from it) who both loved my bike and was probably a bit embarrassed to have called me amigo, which I always get behind the helmet. There’s not that many foreign motorcyclists out here and I might well be the only solo female at the moment so who can blame him? I did get bits and pieces of the conversation as you always can no matter what language barriers… he rode some sort of motorcycle and had crashed, the long scar on his arm told me so more so then any Spanish comprehension on my part.
From there Guerrero Negro and then on to San Ignacio and the bed and breakfast with yurts! Again I haven’t camped though I’m working on that, trying to find places and pace myself a bit better so I’m not always rolling into town just as it gets dark. The place I’m staying was apparently flooded just 3 short weeks ago. Amazing really, with every yurt up to its roof in water. I can’t imagine having to deal with that but the owners are in pretty good spirits and gave me a bit of a deal.
For you motorcycle and travel people what can I tell you about the trip? Lots of the same scenery, lots of cactus, and mostly good roads but some really bad ones. The bad ones are actually better than the middle repair roads as for some reason these are all scarred up in line with the path of travel and throw you around like bridge grating, especially at higher speeds.
As for travel there’s some crazy trucks out there. Most weren’t bad but got completely blasted by a flat front truck today. While that was scary it wasn’t nearly as bad as watching the rear end of the LOADED semi truck in front of my get blown partially off the road by a similar truck. Fortunately he recovered though for a while after he was driving in the middle of the road. I’m guessing it freaked him out almost as much as it did me. Those flat front trucks are seriously dangerous at higher speeds on two lane highways.
Tomorrow I’m heading South to Loreto which should be a beautifully easy day, less than 200 miles. I want to explore San Ignacio a bit more tomorrow morning and get some pictures of the beautiful river here. It’s honestly the first water I’ve seen outside of the ocean or a bathroom.
In looking at my schedule I am thinking of essentially bombing down the peninsula and then taking what time I can back up. The only reason for this is that it’s very hard to know what mileage you can make in a day. What would be easy on an interstate is impossible on twisty highways with military checkpoints and occasional spots of dirt road repairs. At least this is what seems to make the most sense at the moment. I’m afraid like always I’m spending more time riding and not enough time exploring, but then that’s what I tend to do so maybe I should just not fight it. As long as I’m not forced to take it slow I suspect there’s no real reason to worry!